Solo travel
Malta and the case for going alone
A small island, spoken English and a bus network that reaches almost everywhere the history is. Malta solves most of the practical worries that put people off travelling on their own.
By Arthur Penhallow26 September 20263 min read
Travelling alone tends to raise the same short list of worries, whatever the destination: will I be understood, will getting around be more effort than it is worth, and will I end up eating every meal in silence. Malta answers the first two questions almost by default. English has been an official language alongside Maltese since independence, a legacy of over a century and a half of British rule that ended in 1964, so menus, signage and directions rarely need translating. The island itself is small enough, roughly seventeen miles at its longest, that a public bus network radiating out from Valletta reaches most of the places worth reaching within an hour or so, without a car, a guide or a great deal of planning.
What is left is the third worry, the one about company, and this is where a small-group escorted tour changes the equation rather than a solo traveller simply booking a flight and a hotel. A group built specifically for people travelling on their own removes the awkwardness of turning up alone to dinner or a museum, without requiring the traveller to share a room or answer to anyone else's schedule during the day. It is a middle path between the total independence of solo backpacking and the fixed itinerary of a couples' or family holiday, and Malta, dense with things to see in a compact area, suits it particularly well.
A capital built for wandering without a fixed plan
Valletta rewards exactly the kind of unstructured wandering that solo travel makes easy and a rigid itinerary makes difficult. The old city is small enough that getting slightly lost costs a few minutes rather than a taxi fare, its main sights, St John's Co-Cathedral, the Grand Harbour bastions, the National Museum of Archaeology, are close enough together to string into a self-paced morning, and its cafés and bars, particularly around Republic Street, are used to solo customers rather than treating a table for one as an oddity. A small-group itinerary covering Valletta alongside Mdina, the walled former capital a short bus ride inland, and the southern coast around the Blue Grotto, gives a solo traveller the whole island's range without having to work out the logistics alone.
Company when it suits, quiet when it doesn't
A group tour built around solo travellers typically structures the day so that company is available without being compulsory: guided visits to the major sites and shared meals in the evening, with free time built in for anyone who would rather sit with a book by the harbour than join an optional excursion. It suits Malta's own rhythm rather well; even independent visitors here tend to slow down once they discover how much history is packed into how small an area, and how little urgency the island itself seems to feel about any of it.
Malta over Christmas and the New Year has its own particular appeal for a solo traveller: the island decorates itself properly for the season, with nativity scenes in most village churches and lights strung through Valletta and the Three Cities, and a small-group tour over this period gives structure to what can otherwise be a quiet time of year to be travelling alone, with organised meals and excursions filling exactly the days that might otherwise feel emptiest.
The climate helps too, in a quieter way than the history does. A Maltese December rarely drops much below the low teens in Celsius, mild enough for a coat rather than serious winter clothing, and the island's stone streets and squares, built for a Mediterranean summer, wear a mild winter well: less crowded than in high season, with cafés and restaurants glad of custom that isn't purely seasonal, and a pace that suits a traveller in no particular hurry to be anywhere else.
By Arthur Penhallow, the name Atlas & Passage’s editorial team writes under. Prices and dates in the trips below come from the operators and can change.


