Solo travel
Ubud without a group, and the waterfalls in between the yoga
Ubud has a reputation as the part of Bali built for self-improvement. It is also, more usefully for a solo traveller, an easy town to be alone in without ever quite being lonely.
By Arthur Penhallow26 September 20263 min read
Ubud sits inland, away from Bali's beach resorts, in cooler hill country surrounded by rice paddies and forest, and it has spent the last couple of decades acquiring a reputation as the island's spiritual and wellness centre: yoga studios, healers, juice bars and a general air of self-improvement that can feel, to a sceptical visitor, faintly overstated. What tends to get lost in that reputation is a more practical point: Ubud is genuinely one of the easier places in Southeast Asia to travel through alone, because so much of what there is to do here does not particularly require company.
A town built around going quietly
Bali's Hindu temple culture means Ubud is dense with small shrines and family compounds rather than one dominating monument, and a morning spent walking between the Monkey Forest, the rice terraces at the edge of town and a handful of temples does not ask anything of a solo traveller that it would not ask of a group. Waterfalls scattered through the surrounding hills, Sekumpul and Kanto Lampo among the better known, are reached on foot along paths that are perfectly manageable alone, with local guides on hand at the trailheads for anyone who would rather not navigate the descent unaided.
Temples with a job to do
Tirta Empul, a holy spring temple where Balinese Hindus come to bathe in ritual purification, and Gunung Kawi, a set of eleventh-century shrines cut directly into a river gorge, both sit within reach of Ubud and both remain active places of worship rather than museum exhibits. Visiting either alone changes very little about the experience: modest dress and quiet is expected of everyone, in a group or otherwise, and the pace of these places, set by ceremony rather than tour schedule, tends to slow a solo visitor down in a way that suits them.
Where the wellness reputation actually helps
Whatever scepticism is fair about Ubud's self-improvement industry, one practical effect of it is real: the town is full of solo travellers, and has been for long enough that eating alone, joining a group class or striking up a conversation at a warung carries none of the awkwardness it might elsewhere. A small-group itinerary built specifically for solo travellers uses that atmosphere rather than working against it, combining Ubud's temples and waterfalls with a night or two around Mount Batur, an active volcano usually climbed before dawn for the same reason Bromo is, further east in Java: the view belongs to the first hour after sunrise, before cloud builds across the crater.
Mount Batur, and the other sunrise
Mount Batur, an active volcano rising from the caldera of a much older, far larger eruption, is usually climbed in darkness for the same reason Bromo is further east in Java: cloud tends to gather across the summit through the morning, and the clearest views belong to the hour or so after dawn. The climb itself is considerably shorter and less demanding than Kinabalu or Bromo's own approach, manageable in a few hours on a reasonably maintained path, which makes it a popular addition to an Ubud stay for travellers who want one properly early start without committing to a multi-day trek. Solo climbers typically join a small paid group for the ascent regardless of how the rest of their trip is arranged, since guides are compulsory on the mountain and the meeting point at the trailhead naturally puts a handful of strangers, often other solo travellers, into the same jeep before sunrise.
What it does not pretend to be
None of this makes Ubud a wilderness experience or a retreat from other travellers; it remains one of Bali's busier towns, and its cafes and yoga studios cater to a very particular, very international crowd. What it offers a solo traveller instead is lower friction: good public infrastructure for visitors, an established solo culture, and enough genuinely worthwhile sights within a short drive that a week alone here rarely feels short of things to do or people to do them near.
By Arthur Penhallow, the name Atlas & Passage’s editorial team writes under. Prices and dates in the trips below come from the operators and can change.

